Summer vegetable pancit canton

Pancit is the catch-all term for Filipino noodle dishes of the sort served everywhere from casual cafeteria-style turo-turo counters to big family gatherings. The name comes from the Hokkien (a Chinese dialect) phrase "pian i sit", meaning "food cooked fast," and the words that follow tell you what kind of noodles or style to expect. This version, adapted from Nico de Leon, formerly the chef and co-owner of Lasita in Los Angeles, is pancit canton, made with chewy wheat noodles inspired by Chinese stir-fries. It's a flexible, one-pan dish that comes together quickly and welcomes variation: add shrimp or chicken, or keep it vegetable-forward, as it is here, with a mix of summer produce. As the noodles cook, they soak up a savory, citrusy sauce that lightly coats everything. Serve it as a main or alongside other dishes--and don't skip the final squeeze of lemon or, if you can find it, calamansi, a small citrus fruit with a bright, floral tartness that falls somewhere between lime and mandarin, which pulls the whole dish into focus.